Alcañices: where Europe's most ancient border was drawn

In many of my previous articles, I have written about La Raya, the line that separates Spain from Portugal along 1200 km, the oldest border in Europe. It was drawn in 1297, in a place called Alcañices, at the province of Zamora, in Castile and León. It was very needed: Portugal had become an independent country in 1143, and the fights and wars for the border territories had gone too far. So Alcañices was chosen, a village only a few kilometers away from Portugal, to define the borders for good. This is how Campo Maior ended up being Portuguese. This line has been respected for centuries, except for the case of Olivenza, which ended up being Spanish. Therefore, the Alcañices' treaty settled the most ancient border in Europe.

A little bit of history

Now, why did they choose Alcañices? The origin of the village is not certain. It bears an Arabic name, but the remains of this culture exist only in folklore. However, in 1204 a fortress with this name was delivered to the Templars, and less than a century later, two monarchs met there to sign an international treaty. One was Dinis, King of Portugal, and the other, María de Molina, in the name of her son, king of Castile. Therefore, Alcañices must have had a greater importance than we know of. 

The end of the Templars

We all know what happened to the Templars everywhere. They were prosecuted, tortured and killed. The Great Master of Alcañices knew this, and, when he was summoned for trial, he refused to go. The court guaranteed to him and his knights impartial justice, and so they showed up. Happily for them, the court kept its word, and they were found innocent and free to go. From this time, you can still see at the town some parts of the Templar fortress: four “cubos” (cubes), sturdy round towers made of strong stone. They are inside the village, around the hill upon which the fortress was built. You can find them here and there while pacing the Alcañices streets. The most remarkable one is the Torre del Reloj (Clock tower), standing there for almost nine centuries. 

Clock Tower, Alcañices

Calle del Reloj, 1, 49500 Alcañices, Zamora, España

Also from the Templars’ time is the church Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. Its architecture is complex: it was built on Romanesque style, and it has some remains of this, but it has received several works over the years. It has three interesting altarpieces, highly recommended to visit. 

The city

Being at the border, Alcañices has suffered a lot of wars. There is no sign of the great houses from the Templar time, and the once great fortress has been reduced to four towers. But, when you walk its streets, you can still feel its past grandeur. Be attentive on the local architecture, quite unique, combining wood and stone.

Church Nuestra Señora de Asunción, Alcañices

C. de la Iglesia, 12, 49500 Alcañices, Zamora, Spain

In the 16th century, Alcañices was handed over to a family of marquis, who did a lot of embellishment. Their magnificent house stands proudly in the centre of the town, immune to the passing of time. From this time is the local castle, whose ruins are still visible. 

Also, there is a Franciscan monastery. Why Franciscan? Well, it is said that the saint that founded this order, Saint Francis of Assisi, spent a night in Alcañices while he was on his way to St. James of Compostela. The ancient route leading there, the Way of the Silver, crosses the town. To this day, there is an official shelter for pilgrims on Alcañices.

A village full of fountains

Visitors can find up to six sources in Alcañices. There is even a route you can walk to visit all of them. They are very different one from another. Some were used by locals to wash their clothes. It is advisable to visit them, especially in summer! 

When in Alcañices, get lost in its streets, and let yourself be amazed by the jewels you will find on your way. You do not expect them: a Templar's tower overlooking a meadow or a local's house, a huge monastery in the middle of the town, a palace that shows the wealthiness of the Alcañices' noble family... Wander around, and you will discover the past grandeur of Alcañices, the town where it was signed the treaty that draw the most ancient border in Europe!