Granada, the Spanish wonder of the world

When in 2007 Bernard Webber announced the new seven wonders of the world, the Alhambra of Granada ended up being number eight. And it is well worth of it! The magic of the Alhambra is formed by buildings, gardens and forts built over several centuries by different civilizations. The view of the Alhambra standing in front of the snow-capped mountains is one of the most magnificent things I have ever seen. And though the Alhambra is Granada’s main gem, the city offers many other things. Having been the capital of the last Spanish Arab kingdom, Granada has preserved its buildings, its art, its bazar. But when the Christian kings took over, they too wanted to show how great their architecture was, so they too insisted on making it clear for everyone that Granada was no longer Muslim. Today, it is a modern city, the second student city of Spain, full of life and mixed styles everywhere. You will have to discover it for yourself, because trust me, the photos do not do justice to either the Alhambra or Granada, the Spanish wonder of the world! 

A little bit of history

In order to understand how Granada became such a key place, we have to look into its past. Before the Romans set foot on the Peninsula, there was a fortified Iberian city where today stands Granada. However, after the Romans left, only its ruins survived. But the ruins were so well located that a group of Moors decided to protect themselves behind its still-standing city walls. Thus, Hisn Garnata was born. In the beginning it was very small, because another nearby city, Elvira, was the capital. But when the big Caliphate of Cordoba fell and was divided into small kingdoms, the Ziri dynasty lost Elvira and had to look for a better place to settle his capital. They then set eyes on Granada, located at the top of the Albaycin hill, with the Darro river at its foot and a fortress already built there. From then on, Granada was always the capital of a Moorish kingdom. 

When the Berbers came to Spain to support the Moors against the ever growing Christian Kingdoms, they expanded the city walls and created a new castle, the Alcazar Genil. Actually, Granada is known as the city of 1000 castles. Another one is the Santa Elena castle, recently restored and full of secrets, as its tunnels and galleries underneath remain unexplored. 

After the Berbers, the Nasrids gained control of the Kingdom and so started Granada’s most flourishing period. Their dynasty lasted from 1238 to 1492 (twenty sultans, in total). They were the ones to build the Alhambra (Al-Hamra, red, from the colour of its walls). Mohamed the II built most of the palace areas. On the 14th century a medina and the royal mosque were already built. Very quickly, Alhambra became the symbol of the Islamic art at the Iberian Peninsula. 

The Alhambra 

Together with the Generalife gardens and the Albaycin, it was declared UNESCO patrimony in 1984. The gardens were the sultan’s leisure area, including a huge swimming pool where naval battles were represented. Another important part was the Alcazaba, the fortress. And of course, the palaces. Every sultan contributed a new construction, and when the city became Christian, the Spanish kings wanted to leave their footprints as well. King Charles the V built a huge palace in the middle of the other buildings, in deep contrast with the already existing architecture. This palace is one of the best examples of the Spanish Renaissance style. 

Alhambra and its Generalife gardens

Generalife, 18009 Granada, Spain

The Alhambra is too big to be described in just a few words. It is simply one of those things you must visit before you die. Many people feel this way, as it has become the most visited tourist attraction in Spain. This is why I suggest you take a skip the line guided tour, so you can appreciate what a masterpiece it is and you do not waste time waiting for hours outside. 

The end of the Nasrid Kingdom

Back to Granada’s history, let me tell you about the two last sultans of the Nasrid dynasty. The next to last was Muley Hacen, and he was married to Aixa. However, he fell in love with a Christian captive, Isabel de Solís, who corresponded him and converted to Islam. Aixa, jealous, convinced her older son, Boabdil, to fight his father for the throne. And so started the last civil war of the Nasrid Kingdom. The Catholic Kings took advantage of this and beat them both.  

The father, according to the legend, asked to be buried at the closest place to the sky. This spot was the Mulhacen, the highest mountain of the Peninsula, which took its name from him. His sepulchre, said to be very rich in treasures, has been searched ever since, but has never been found. Who knows if it will ever show up? By the way, here is the Sierra Nevada ski resort, so if you are a ski enthousiast come and try this snow!

As for the son, Boabdil, he was the one who handed the keys of the city to the Catholic Kings. Tradition says that, on their way out, he looked back, crying, to watch Granada one last time. His mother, Aixa, told him then the famous words: “cry like a woman for what you could not defend as a man”. This is why this mountain is known as the Moorish’ sigh. The scene is so popular it even inspired a song about it, about the roaming ghost of the king, who every night enchants the Alhambra. In reality, he exiled himself at Fez, where the sultan was a relative. But still, it must have been a trauma for the poor guy, after his dynasty ruled the city for over 200 years!

The Christian Granada

When the Catholic Kings entered Granada, they were very happy, so they were very generous with the locals. They allowed them to keep their lives like before. However, when they came back on a visit eight years later, they were horrified to see how many people still frequented the mosques. Then, under the influence of Cardinal Cisneros, many turned into churches, which caused a rebellion from the Muslims. They ended up being expelled from the region. So ended the Islamic presence on Granada, but wherever you look in the city, you will find their footprints…

Patrimony 

After the Alhambra, the main building is the cathedral. It is the first Renaissance church of Spain, and like in other previously Muslim cities, it was built over the Great Mosque. At its royal chapel are buried the Catholic Kings, Phillip the Beautiful and his wife Joan the Crazy, so called because she spent eight months wandering around Castile with her husband’s dead body -minus the heart, sent to Brussels!- trying to bring him to Granada as had been his last wish. This was used as an excuse to lock her for life so she did not have access to the Castilian throne, but the last studies say she was very sane. 

Granada's Cathedral

Calle Gran Vía de Colón, 5, 18001 Granada, Ισπανία

Her son, Charles the V, built a palace on the Alhambra and the University, which became one of the oldest of Spain. Nowadays Granada is the second student city of the country and has over 60,000 students. The student tradition in this city is palpable everywhere. Bars are really cheap, and you can get a beer anywhere and it will always come with a free tapa. You need to find out which bars offer the best ones! 

As for the rest of the patrimony, the city went through a “Castilian” transformation. Many mosques were demolished and many spaces were opened, the streets made wider, etc. This is how the Bib Rambla and Plaza Nueva squares were born. Old places like the bazar, the current zoco, were kept and nowadays when you enter you feel like being in Morocco. 

When the Moorish rebelled, the Albaycin neighbourhood was practically emptied, and it has remained like this ever since, a place with little population and lots of gardens. A must when you visit Granada, remember it has been declared UNESCO patrimony!

Albayzin, the Arab quarter, Unesco's site

Carril de San Miguel, 3, 18010 Granada, Spain

The other neighbourhood worth a visit is Sacromonte, “the sacred mount”. It was initially inhabited by gipsies who established themselves here after the city was conquered by the Christians. It is very famous for its caves, used as houses, where you can listen to their music. I strongly advise a tour around these two neighbourhoods so you can fully understand their soul. 

Sacromonte, the city's traditional neighborhood

Calle Fuentecilla, 15, 18010 Granada, Spain

How to get here & where to stay 

You can reach Granada by train or by car coming from Madrid or Seville. Granada is a great destination whether you travel light or travel and work. It does not matter if you are on a budget or not. Granada is a good destination for every season, but I would advise not to visit it during the summer, as it gets extremely hot! Also, if you are looking for a place to stay, I would advise a lodgement with a view over the Alhambra nearby the main touristic attractions, so you do not spend too much time on transport. I hope I have fulfilled every item on your checklist. Wait no more and come discover Granada, the Spanish wonder of the world!