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The old saying used to go: if you can't find it at Maravillas then it doesn't exist. This is still certainly true if you're looking for any or every type of fresh meat – at least half of the 200-plus units in this vast covered market seem to be carnecerías (butcher shops), selling chorizo from Zamora, blood sausage from Burgos, baby suckling pig from Salamanca. Fishmongers and seamstresses are also well-represented, and customers can pour their own fresh milk through chilled taps from industrial vats. Which is to say that these businesses appear to be serving the same public, with the same needs, as when the market was first built in 1933. It's a piece of history and a slice of life, beneath a roof fitted with factory windows and utilitarian air ducts, between the barrios of Estrecho and Tetuan. It's also a cost-effective place for a visitor to fill up the fridge of their Madrid airbnb rental. But it also provides a sanctuary from the more touristy corners of the city, where you can retreat for a merienda (afternoon break) at the market's Raypi bar and coffee shop. Older locals sit at the counter dipping churros into their cafe con leche, or drinking ice-cold beer with a free tapa of potatoes and mushrooms fried in olive oil – greasy, but good.