© iStock / Helena GH
© iStock / Helena GH

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Potes, a balcony to the Picos de Europa

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If you are ever in Cantabria, there is a place you should never miss: Potes. This beautiful, post-card-like town is at the junction of four valleys and two rivers, so even if it is in the north of Spain, its temperature is Mediterranean-like. Its old town is a little jewel, with typical stone and wood houses. It is known as the village of the towers and bridges, and if you dare to go to the top of the highest tower, you will get the amazing sight of the National Park of the Picos de Europa. Lonely Planet has voted it as the most beautiful inland town in Spain. Plus, it has also been recognized by UNESCO as a part of the Camino de Santiago, a less crowded way! So keep reading to learn more about Potes: a balcony to the Picos de Europa & a stop on the Camino de Santiago! 

A bit of history…

Potes was always inhabited, but we do not know much about anything before the Middle Ages. It was first linked to the nearby Monastery of Saint Toribio, a place with the biggest known piece of Christ’s cross. Then some medieval lords fought about it, and the ones known as the Mendoza got to rule it. They built the highest tower in town, the Torre del Infantado, in the 15th century. From this time, it is also the tower of Orejón de Lama and the san Cayetano bridge. 

© iStock / JoseIgnacioSoto
© iStock / JoseIgnacioSoto

The old town was set on fire by the republicans during our Civil War. However, during the dictatorship of Franco, it was carefully rebuilt, so carefully that you will feel like going back in time while walking its streets. 

© iStock / ZHARATE
© iStock / ZHARATE

What to do & what to eat

Walk Potes’ streets, cross its high bridges, and enjoy the warm weather. Despite being in the north of Spain, at the foot of one of its tallest mountains, there is a Mediterranean climate. That is why you can see vines growing here! However, do not leave without trying its star dish, the “cocido lebaniego”. It was created to work the land, so be sure to be really, really hungry if you want to try it! Among other ingredients, it has chickpeas, cabbage, marinated ribs, fresh sausages, bacon, pig’s ear and black pudding (always made of rice). At the end of this meal, you can also try the local liquor to start digesting it!

© iStock / LUNAMARINA
© iStock / LUNAMARINA

What to visit around Potes

While you can only stay in Potes, I strongly advise you to visit its surrounding areas, which are very diverse and beautiful. You can start with the nearby Monastery of Saint Toribio de Liébana. You may not have heard of it, but it is actually one of the most sacred places in the world for Christians, along with Jerusalem and Rome. The reason is its “Lignum Crucis”, the biggest chunk of the cross where Jesus Christ died, so it has received thousands of pilgrims since it was built in the 5th century.  

© iStock / Jose Luis Alvarez Esteban
© iStock / Jose Luis Alvarez Esteban

There are other buildings next to it worth a visit: the Saint Cave, the ruins of the saint Catalina Monastery and a couple of little churches, like the pretty, tiny San Miguel church. It is so important that UNESCO has recently acknowledged it as an important stop in what is now known as the Liébana Camino, linking the French Way to the Camino de Santiago.

© iStock / Jose Luis Alvarez Esteban
© iStock / Jose Luis Alvarez Esteban
Monasterio Santo Toribio de Liébana, Potes
Monasterio Santo Toribio de Liébana, Potes
39570 Camaleño, Cantabria, Spain

If you are not too much into religious matters, there is another more joyful thing to do: take the cable car at Fuente Dé and go up 753 metres in a few minutes! You will land at 1800 metres above sea level, at the heart of Picos de Europa. That is why Potes is known as the balcony of Picos de Europa. It is a National Park really worth this distinction. You can walk all the way down back to Potes. It is one of the most beautiful hikes I have ever done! Of course, you can also try the breathtaking ruta del Cares, not far from this spot!

© iStock / poliki
© iStock / poliki
Parque Nacional de Picos de Europa
Parque Nacional de Picos de Europa
Parque Nacional de Los Picos de Europa, 24915, Asturias, Spain

Last but not least, another option, if you are ever in this area, is the Cueva El Soplao. Discovered by miners seeking zinc in 1908, it is like Ali Baba’s cave of wonders. It has all kinds of geological formations, with lights and shadows, and unique views of the nearby valleys and, of course, the Picos de Europa. It looks like a Miró painting, with its columns, stars, stalactites, and stalagmites. 

© Creative Commons / María Jesús Tomé
© Creative Commons / María Jesús Tomé
El Soplao Cave
El Soplao Cave
Prao el Colla, s/n, 39553 Celis, Cantabria, España

I think I have made my point: you cannot miss Potes, a balcony to the Picos de Europa & a stop on the Camino de Santiago!

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The author

Sara Rodriguez Romo

Sara Rodriguez Romo

I live between Salamanca, in Spain, and Marvão, in Portugal. A passionate traveller, I have visited over 30 countries in four continents. Currently I am doing a PhD in Greek Mythology and working with horses, doing rides in the nature.

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