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Sensing Belgrade: Touch the city

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Your skin gives you the sense of touch through the myriad nerve-endings all over your body. The skin tells your brain about sensations by transmitting messages along a pathway of nerve receptors. Touch is the first of the five senses to develop in a human embryo. The idea of describing the city atmosphere through five senses: Tasting Belgrade, Smelling Belgrade, Sense of Touch in Belgrade, Sensing Sounds in Belgrade, View of Belgrade, continues with a story about a wind.

This winter I had no feeling that I was in Belgrade, because of the wind absence. There is a certain wind here called Koshava, very cold one, but I assure you that you’re here, in Belgrade. A few days ago, I got cheek blushes and red nose while walking in Belgrade. The first thing I said when I got home was: "Koshava is back!"

"Hoş hava!(Pleasant air!)" This is what Suleiman the Magnificent said during his visit to Belgrade, back in 16th century. After, this two words merged into one, Koshava.

Košava (pronounced [kɔ̌ʃaʋa]) is a cold, very squally southeastern wind that you find in Serbia and some nearby countries. It starts in the Carpathian Mountains and follows the Danube northwest through the Iron Gate region where it gains a jet effect. Then it continues to sensational Belgrade.

Belgrade can be considered as blessed because this wind completely cleanses the air. That's also why it puts a lot of trouble on the inhabitants of the capital, because it is strong one. People believe that Koshava can blow in intervals of one day, three days or a week. However, in Belgrade, it happened to be very intensive-for even a whole month. The meteorologists by contrast, distinguishes two types of Koshava. The warm and cold. The warm one brings an increase of a temperature of several degrees. The cold Koshava lowers the temperature by 5-10 degrees and is most common in October and March.

This is how Belgrade hugs you when Koshava tries to take your hat off. This famous wind for Belgrade leads us to the next sense of the city; Essence of Belgrade.

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The author

Zlata Golaboska

Zlata Golaboska

I am Zlata and I am an architect living in the Balkans. I am passionate about cities, how people influence architecture and vice versa, and how places change our lives.

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