Tavernas used to appear, as "refreshment points", in the places of passage for those involved in commerce- so generally nearby or right on streets, intersections, squares, and markets. Soon they also became places of meeting and social relations. The buildings, often poor and discharged, took on importance according to the place where they were situated and the people they fed. The wine and its "mescita" were the necessary elements, along with restaurant services. Along the streets of Macerata, Marche, there have been several historical taverns which we, unfortunately, can’t visit anymore. However, here are two modern-day options which can work as well.
Located on the first floor above a bar, it is furnished in a 1950’s style: a floor made with painted rustic boards and walls painted with red burgundy enamel clogs. The furnishings are rustic and are enriched by pieces from the ’30s, including a cupboard, a platemaker, a cash register, a display case, a wood stove in terracotta and a turntable from the ’50s. Old copper pots and vintage photos are hanging on the walls. Founded at the beginning of the last century as a grocery store, the place was usually very busy with both the inhabitants of the city and the people of the surrounding countryside areas. After a few years, the sale of tobacco was added. In 1945 the bar was transformed in a tavern and norcineria, where dishes from the local "poor cuisine" made from pork and homemade pasta were served. In 1968 it gained the identity is has also today: bar, restaurant, with a high artisan pastry making. Members of the petty family, heirs of the founder, continue the culinary tradition proposing frugal peasant cooking dishes: stews, stockfish and cod, hand-made egg pasta, the famous English soup (a dessert) and scroccafusi. The scroccafusi are the typical sweets of the Marche tradition, and they owe their name to the characteristic noise they make when you eat them.
At the entrance of this restaurant, there is a modern counter bar, of a bright orange color, which matches well the walls painted in light colors and the tables with their folding wooden chairs. In the room next to the entrance, there is a fireplace and tables in 50’s vintage style. Two original business signs with the words “Sale tabacchi” and “Posto di telefono pubblico” hang on the walls. Next to the main entrance, there is the entrance to the grocery store section of the place. The business was founded in 1952 by Nazarene Fabians. The founder, nicknamed “Jennà,” ran the industry for many years together with his wife Giulia Moretto, first as a grocery store and then like a tobacco bar and finally a tavern. Given the location of the junction, close to the road, this place was a favorite of the hunters and the drivers that were heading towards the Ancona area from the beginning. They would stop there for a drink and a chat. Today it is run by two young boys, Simona, and Antonio ( “the Portuguese”). Since 2009, they have managed to revive this farm shop by adding the possibility of eating traditional peasant dishes, such as polenta with sausage, cod, gnocchi with duck sauce and, of course, the local ham and salami accompanied by bread baked on the wood fire.
Did you like the travel story?
Get more! Subscribe to our monthly inspiration newsletter.