Shimokitazawa, the bohemian neighbourhood of Tokyo

We all know Tokyo and have a picture in our minds of what Japan’s capital city is all about: flickering neon lights, a cascade of bodies swashbuckling back and forth in Shibuya Crossing, unbelievably mouthwatering food, and of course, on the precipice between the modern present and the innovative future. But here’s the thing, ever since moving to this megatropolis, I’ve soon discovered that there’s even more to peel back behind the steel and gleaming curtains of Tokyo. As I try to integrate into my new life living as one of the Tokyoites, I found a corner of the city that’s eclectically youthful, rebelliously nonconformist, and unabashedly unique to the rest of Tokyo’s suit and-tie personality. Welcome to Shimokitazawa, a neighbourhood within Tokyo that is like a city within a city itself. Curious? Follow me on Instagram and YouTube for more adventures! 

For me to get to know Shimokitazawa was for me to learn about its history - a fascinating tale of transformation and cultural evolution. Originally, Shimokitazawa was a quiet farming village, located on the western outskirts of Tokyo… Yep, so you can imagine how Tokyo has grown into the gigantic Godzilla-like metropolis it is today by engulfing these villages to become the neighbourhood that it is now. Back then, it was primarily an agricultural area during the late 1800s, characterised by rice paddies, vegetable fields, and rural landscapes - very Ghibili countryside-core. Then in the early 20th century, as Tokyo's urbanisation accelerated (as Japan rose in its infamous bubble economy), Shimokitazawa experienced a wave of residential development. The neighbourhood's convenient location, just a few train stops away from central Tokyo, made it an attractive choice for families and individuals seeking a quieter suburban lifestyle.

However, Shimokitazawa's destiny took a creative turn in the 1970s - and this is where it gets real interesting. The neighbourhood became a hotbed for counterculture, attracting artists, musicians, and intellectuals who were drawn to its bohemian atmosphere. New York has Brooklyn, Berlin has Kreuzberg, and now Tokyo has Shimokitazawa. The area's affordable rents and spacious old houses became magnets for individuals seeking an alternative lifestyle and creative freedom. During this era, Shimokitazawa became a hub for artistic expression, with theatres, live music venues, and art spaces sprouting up across the neighbourhood - thriving with the creative set. The streets buzzed with the sounds of indie bands, and the air was filled with the aroma of intellectual debates and artistic experimentation, making it quite a unique tare-away from the homogeneous side of Japanese culture.

As I walk through its narrow streets today, I can easily see how the bohemian spirit of Shimokitazawa persisted through the subsequent decades. The neighbourhood still cultivates a reputation as a vibrant and culturally rich enclave. Even with the burst of Japan’s then-bubble economy, this neighbourhood continued to attract a diverse community of artists, students, musicians, and actors who contributed to its unique and eclectic character. In recent years, Shimokitazawa has garnered attention from both locals and tourists for its thriving vintage fashion scene, bustling cafes, and trendy shops. Its popularity as a destination for fashion-forward individuals and lovers of alternative culture has grown significantly, while still retaining its intimate and welcoming vibe.

Today, Shimokitazawa stands as a testament to the power of community, creativity, and the enduring spirit of counterculture. It embodies a distinct charm that celebrates individuality, artistic expression, and the preservation of the neighbourhood's rich history amidst Tokyo's ever-changing landscape. Not many people who come to visit Tokyo think about exploring this neighbourhood, and hey, I get it - if this is your first trip, you only have so many hours, with a big list of things to do and to see. But for those who want another slice of Tokyo and experience the city from a different perspective off the beaten path, then I highly recommend coming to Shimokitazawa.

Stroll Through the Streets

From the well-located metro station - as you step into Shimokitazawa's winding streets, you will be captivated by its unique charm. This pedestrian-friendly neighbourhood is known for its narrow alleys, lined with quaint cafes, vintage clothing stores, record shops, and art galleries. Take your time to wander around, soak in the atmosphere, and explore the hidden gems tucked away in every nook and cranny. Most things open in this neighbourhood around 11am - but favourite time to visit is about an hour to an hour and a half before that, because you really can get a sense of the streets and have the space to yourself. Come 11am, the neighbourhood is flocekd with Tokyo’s cool kids, which is awesome for people watching in itself. But by then by noon, I find the neighbourhood too busy, but you can easily pop into different stores and cafes otherwise.

Immerse Yourself in the Thrift Culture

Speaking of stores… Shimokitazawa is a vintage lover's paradise. From retro clothing to secondhand treasures, the neighborhood boasts a plethora of thrift stores waiting to be explored. Unearth fashionable gems from past decades, find a one-of-a-kind accessory, or simply revel in the nostalgia of bygone eras. Shopping in Shimokitazawa is like embarking on a fashion time travel adventure - and one where I’ve spent many, many hours rifting through awesome globally sourced vintage goods. You have your luxury designers - one can easily find authentic Yves Saint Laurent to Chanel bags for a decent price, to your North American university sweatshirt and sneakers. 

Unleash Your Inner Music Fanatic

Music enthusiasts will feel right at home in Shimokitazawa. The neighborhood is famous for its indie music scene, with numerous live houses and small venues hosting performances by local bands. Check out the schedule at iconic venues like Shimokitazawa THREE or BASEMENT BAR to catch a live show and experience the raw talent and creativity of Tokyo's emerging artists. It definitely also makes for a fun night out if you want to watch live music. 

Indulge in Culinary Delights

Shimokitazawa definitely does not disappoint when it comes to satisfying your taste buds. I have had my choice of pick here - and often find myself coming back to this neighbourhood for the wonderful dishes. From traditional Japanese cuisine to international flavours, the neighbourhood offers an array of dining options of any budget. Try local favourites like okonomiyaki (savoury pancakes) - one of my must eats, yakitori (grilled skewered chicken), or dive into a plate of mouthwatering sushi. Don't forget to explore the hidden izakayas (Japanese-style pubs) for a truly immersive dining experience while you’re catching a live show.

Where to Stay in Shimokitazawa

Of course, as much as Shimokitazawa is a commercial neighbourhood, it’s also very residential. If you really want to get a taste of what it is like to live like a local Tokyoite, then staying in Shimokitazawa would be a great slice of life. One of my favourite cafes in the neighbourhood is actually in the lobby of MUSTARD HOTEL SHIMOKITAZAWA, which is also a chic stay. A cosy accommodation is illi Shimokitazawa, perfect for families or group of friends. There’s also a more traditional Japanese stay with Kitazawa Cozy House. 

Shimokitazawa, Tokyo

Shimokitazawa, Kitazawa, Setagaya City, Tokyo 155-0031, Japan